Central kitchens have, I think, become a dark (no pun intended) secret of our industry. We somehow believe that it reduces our credibility if we admit that we use a central kitchen to produce some of the items for our menu. But really, there are several great reasons to have a central kitchen – or even use one of your kitchens, if you have multiple sites.
The first reason is quality. If one person knows how to make a difficult dish really well, then why not get them to make it all the time? If someone is an ace at making brownies, they should make them for everyone, because the guest will notice. And the same goes for fish pie mix, or for the marinade for ribs, and maybe even the cooking process too. Even now, this makes my mouth water – I love ribs. But of course, there is a downside. If the whole fish pie is made centrally, then perhaps the fish pie will turn mushier and the fish will fall apart if it is cooked twice. I think the best fish pie has raw fish added to the mix and then cooked fresh.
So, we have to be really careful about what is made or cooked centrally, and far more importantly, what isn’t, based on the value equation for our business. That is the risk; the perception is that the central kitchen is taken too far, and rather than quality being enhanced, it is reduced. After all, time can be either an enhancer of a dish or a destroyer, as we all know from eating our stew or bolognese on day two.
Our real challenge is how to communicate our kitchen processes and practices well enough. And so, in truth, if we haven’t communicated at all, what’s the point of them? I think we could do a better job and take this on in a positive way, by naming the chef and showing him at work. Social media could make a real difference here, and I always think it is better to find a positive way to deal with the PR, rather than letting a cancerous negativity pervade. There is a chain of quite high-end restaurants in Harrogate that has lost the battle on central kitchens. All rumour, but there is nothing to counteract it.
The second reason is consistency. If a dish is hard to make, then why not do it in one place? For those chains that require consistency for the brand values, then it is essential. I couldn’t imagine McDonald’s making their burgers on site or cutting their chips. For some, of course, the requirement for complete consistency is not an issue. It is expected that each chef might want to do things slightly differently. But even then, if you like it one way, you will probably be disappointed. I prefer my rib falling off the bone!
The third is people cost. There is a significant saving in cost if you can get this right. You can buy expensive kit and use it far more often if you are doing it in one place. We don’t really want highly paid chefs chopping onions the old-fashioned way if we can help it. You can make batches of dishes that take little more time to do in large quantities than in small ones and so gain big economies of scale. And naturally, labour costs may be lower, as kitchen staff may not require traditional chef training – they’re primarily operating machines.
The fourth reason is premises cost. When rents are sky-high in city centres, why would you want to use that space for kitchen prep if it can be done in a cheaper location elsewhere? It is best to have more covers and drive greater sales. This could add, say, another ten covers to a 100-cover restaurant, which is a significant sales growth opportunity.
For the smaller brands, there are versions of this that can be utilised. Items could be prepared in one kitchen for the group, for any of the above reasons. You don’t have to have another premises. We need to do this anyway for our wedding and outside catering business, so we are learning how to do it.
I think we need to get on the front foot in our industry about what we do where. Any hint or rumour of a central kitchen will draw us closer to the M&S comparison. And if we drive the positives, both cost and revenue, then we can, and will, make our industry a better one.
Alastair Scott is the owner of Malvern Inns and chief executive of S4labour